driving down PCH and these waves are screaming at me..... I run down the hill with my fish in hand, paddling out shaking with only one other guy out.... turn and start paddling for my first wave thinking I`m so under-gunned but scratch like hell so I don`t hang up at the top but unfortunately I do and get pitched out as far as the wave is tall....... almost get out and give my board to the first guy i see..... catch my breath and go out to the line-up watching that lone guy laughing his head off...... "that was insane dude, you went flying thru the air"...... yeah funny........ next wave i scratch for I grab my rail sliding then turn off the bottom and line up for the most amazing dry barrel flippin` that fucker off for his smart-ass mouth.... continued getting waves and snaking that guy on almost every wave he "tried" to get..... respect your elders you little fuck...... hour and a half with me and the funny-guy until the crowds starting pouring out.... four lane PCH turned into two because everyone started to double park on the street.... complete anarchy.... cops didn`t know what to do except direct traffic... took this pic as i was driving away....... it was better earlier.... I had to say that.....
'What if the life you`re living is actually your life flashing before your eyes; you`re dying.' Whether I shall turn out to be the hero of my own life, or whether that station will be held by anybody else, these posts must show.........
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Sunday, September 28, 2008
cycle zombie extravaganza............
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they inspired me so that I went and bought a tamborine the very next day........that $2 investment is gonna make me fuckin famous and if I`m lucky in a few more years, real fat........
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Joe Coleman / Another mad artist......
Quotes #2 & 3 Life Ain`t Easy.....
Nobody realizes that some people expend tremendous energy merely to be normal....................
I see many people die because they judge that life is not worth living. I see others paradoxically gettin killed for the ideas or illusions that give them a reason for living (what is called a reason for living is also an excellent reason for dying). I therefore conclude that the meaning of life is the most urgent of questions................ Albert Camus..... read "The Stranger "and "The Rebel"............ I rest.... for now.......
I see many people die because they judge that life is not worth living. I see others paradoxically gettin killed for the ideas or illusions that give them a reason for living (what is called a reason for living is also an excellent reason for dying). I therefore conclude that the meaning of life is the most urgent of questions................ Albert Camus..... read "The Stranger "and "The Rebel"............ I rest.... for now.......
Sunday, September 21, 2008
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